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So I packed my bags and headed home to Texas to try to discern why the style of this larger-than-life place transcends borders geographic and social.In the 130-plus years since Lucchese opened its doors, the firm has outfitted cowboys, LBJ (who said, “Sam, I can’t wear any of the boots I’ve been given except those you made for me”), John Wayne, and Gregory Peck, and has defined a kind of American luxury in a perfect marriage of form and function. The firm’s 100,000-square-foot El Paso factory lies in the middle of ranch country, where the brutal terrain and vaquero tradition require the toughest footwear. El Paso, on the far west fringe of the state, lies just across the border from Mexico, where many of Lucchese’s employees come from. There, the Spanish tradition of leatherwork has given birth to highly skilled artisans. Their creationstruly wearable artrival any foot-wear coming out of Europe. – Continue Reading BelowI arrive one unseasonably cool day last fall and am escorted into an area guarded by chain-link fencing that houses every hide imaginable, from American alligator to sturgeon. The smell (think the world’s largest tack room) is intoxicating. To say I’m overwhelmed by the prospect of designing my own boots from scratch is an understatement, but I’m quickly besotted with a swatch of rich brown baby buffalo. The sounds of the machinery compete with the Tejano music: a lot of accordion and stringed bajo sexto, blending traditional Mexican folk music with the German waltzes and Czech polkas imported to Texas by settlers. Each work-station is a chapter in the life of a boot. I learn the tricks that contribute to Lucchese’s superiority: 4045 lemon-wood pegs to bind the insole and outsole, a steel shank to maintain the curve of the arch, and a solid leather heel counterall steps that culminate in 24 hours in a 110 degree drying room. It’s not unlike a West Texas summer day. From start to finish, each pair is touched by human hands more than 150 times during the 18-day (at minimum) construction process. The result is the best-fitting boot money can buy ($499$12,995). – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowAfter combing through the company’s archives and getting up close and personal with Johnny’s, June’s, and the Duke’s lasts (the hand-carved wooden molds of their feet that ensure a perfect- fitting boot), I’ve got plenty of inspiration. With the guidance of Vice President of Product Design Guy Marshall, among a dizzying array of toe and heel options, I decide on a white shooting star inlay to frame my initials in a western fonta throwback to the 1950s. I realize not everyone in my age group shares my love of archival designs, but Lucchese does more than boots: Over the past two seasons, the brand has quietly rolled out shoes, hand- bags, and accessories. While I was there, the team was trying to figure out how to outfit a pair of boots with flashing LED lights for alt-country superstar and Mineola, Texas, native Kacey Musgraves, who is collaborating with the brand on a capsule collection. – Continue Reading Below”I grew up singing western swing and have been wearing cowboy boots for as long as I can remember,” Musgraves says. “But Texas style is for anyone who isn’t afraid of making a statement; the bigger, the sparklier estrategias , the better.”From El Paso I fly to Dallas, where the resurgence in Lone Star State fashion began about a year ago when Karl Lagerfeld paid homage to Coco Chanel’s famous 1957 meeting with retailer Stanley Marcus, of Neiman Marcus fame. Lagerfeld sent out a parade of haute couture-clad western archetypes for the house’s Metiers d’Art presentation. In attendance was longtime Chanel customer, Texas socialite Lynn Wyatt: “Karl has been a friend, and he said, ‘I’m dedicating this show to you.’ I could not believe when he told me that. I mean, I justI said, ‘Baloney!’ And he said, ‘No, no, no, in every sketch I had you in mind.’ I was blown away!”It’s been said that Mademoiselle Chanel was less than pleased with the cuisine at the barbecue Marcus held in her honor and she tossed her dinner under the table, only to have it land on Elizabeth Arden’s red satin pumps. But that meeting was less about introducing Chanel to Dallas than introducing Texas to the world. With the fashion industry’s gaze once again upon the city, Lagerfeld’s recent ode to the West was perhaps the biggest nod to Texas style since, well, the Dallas and Urban Cowboy eras.None of the ladies who lunch batted an eyelash when I walked into the restaurant at the Mansion on Turtle Creek in my dusty jeans, mud-caked cowboy boots, and black Stetson, straight from an early morning horseback ride just outside town. “The Mansion,” as it’s known, is where actor Larry Hagman and company held court off-set during their Dallas heyday. It’s also where custom-boot-clad celebrity chef Dean Fearing (who says a man can’t wear yellow roses on his feet?) made his name, thanks to the best tortilla soup this side of the Rio Grande. It was the ’80s: The Reagans were in the White House, oil topped out at more than $100 per barrel in today’s dollars, and a sizable proportion of the countryand certainly a lot of Texaswas living large. Millions tuned in every Friday night to follow the incestuous antics of the feuding Barnes and Ewing clans, including five-year-old me, in Beaumont, Texas. – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowWhile Dallas (19781991) defined the modern-day cowboy notion, where freedom and power went from being measured in acres and head of cattle to dollars and number of barrels, the old standardsboots, hats, and shiny belt buckles remained the same. Further fueling the Texas mania was Urban Cowboy (1980), the cult classic starring John Travolta and Debra Winger that made riding a mechanical bull at the famed Gilley’s the sexiest game around.”This is going to be a big year for Gilley’s, I tell you, we’ve really got the bull by the horns,” Gilley tells me over lunch, and if the Pasadena, Texas, city council approves the project, it will be. Gilley’s was Texas’ Studio 54, although a helluva lot bigger. The 70,000-square- foot space (there was a rodeo arena in there somewhere) was where pretty young things, my parents among them, mingled with roughnecks and cowboys real and imagined. One of my prize pos- sessions is my mother’s vintage T-shirt that proudly proclaims I RODE THE BULL AT GILLEY’S, and I couldn’t resist the opportunity for a signature. “Hell, you can see straight through it. We gotta get you a new one,” Gilley says when I pull the artifact from my bag. – Continue Reading BelowLynn Wyatt rode the bull too, when she and her husband, oilman Oscar Wyatt, introduced Diane von Furstenberg and Andy Warhol to the joys of Lone Star Beer and two-stepping at Urban Cowboy’s 1980 premiere party at Gilley’s. “They absolutely loved it! They all dressed fabulously that night, and we were dancing on the tables and everything,” she says. Although Wyatt has a legendary wardrobe brimming with couture, when she and her husband head to their ranch, Tasajillo, outside Laredo in South Texas, it’s a pair of classic black Luccheses she reaches for. “Western clothes are very sexy on a woman, and they’re very sexy on men,” Wyatt says. “But to me, it’s as much about a state of mind. I think a Texas girl grows up thinking that she can do anything.”Such mythology fuels other myths, like that of the girl in the calico dress who walked into Neiman Marcus bare- foot after striking oil, ready for a make-over and pulling a wad of bills from her bosom. It’s the confidence that one can look just as chic in the right pair of boots and jeans as in a cocktail number and stilettos. Bold, no pretense.BOOTS ON THE GROUND – Continue Reading Below – Continue Reading BelowAfter a heaping bowl of the aforementioned tortilla soup, and with Wyatt’s wisdom in mind, I set out in my Jeep Grand Cherokee on a winding road trip through the beautiful Hill Country to explore the many facets of Texas style. Friday night here means only one thing. I pull into Hico (burial place of Billy the Kid) just in time to catch the halftime show. I don’t even need to know the game’s location; I simply look for the floodlights illuminating the $3 million high school football stadium, which serves a town with a population of fewer than 1,500. The San Saba Armadillos may be down by 28, but all eyes are on the school’s drill team, the Dilloettes, whose perfectly synchronized high kicks are accented by snow-white cowgirl boots, a look pioneered by the Kilgore Rangerettes and the Dallas Cowboy Cheerleaders (the Cheerleaders’ boots are made by Lucchese, natch). How do they keep them so pristine? After swinging by the concession stand for a Frito pie (a single-serving bag of Fritos mixed with cheese and beef chili, beloved by Texans universally), I head southwest to my next destination: Bandera (pop. 861).Befitting the Cowboy Capital of the World, nearly every bar in Bandera features hitching posts, including Brian Black’s Longhorn Saloon, where Big Tex, a 1,500-pound longhorn steer, can often be found holding court near the pool table. Wear a pair of Luccheses just about anywhere in this great state and pant legs start rising, and before you know it, everyone’s staring at their feet, swapping stories. “See that dent in the toe?” says one cowboy, propping his left foot proudly on a barstool. “Steer done gone and stepped right on it!”Bright and early the next day I’m off to Fredericksburg, founded in 1846 by German immigrants who brought with them their accordions, cuisine, and a language that still survives. I grab a Danish the size of my head at the first bakery I see and meet up with Lester Meier of Lester Meier Rodeo Company (which, in addition to running professional rodeos statewide, orchestrates authentic western-style events for foreigners and Fortune 500 companies) to catch two-time world champion steer roper Scott Snedecor’s morning practice. Even though this cowboy’s wearing a fleece pullover and a baseball cap”Sorry we didn’t dress up for you”his choice in footwear is pure Texas, the aptly named roper. The boot features a short, flat heel for a quick and easy dismount (as opposed to a stacked “riding” heel, the better to keep one’s feet firmly in the stirrups on long rides). When I tell Snedecor’s father about my trip , he grins and lifts his jeans just enough to give me a flash of his spur- accented Luccheses. – Continue Reading BelowI pull into Austin, the state capital, as the sun is setting, leaving the pink granite dome of the capitol aglow. Here at the Cloak Room, the preferred watering hole of lawmakers and lobbyists, suits with boots are de rigueur. During her four decades in public service, former U.S. senator Kay Bailey Hutchison amassed quite the collection. But it’s a bold red- and-gold pair that perhaps made the biggest impression. Hutchison was standing onstage at the Black Tie

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